The Story of Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Ri Trek

Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Ri (peak)

24th Oct 2025 - this day one month ago we started our journey to one of the most sought after trek of the Himalayan region. The trek to the base camp of the highest peak in the world “EVEREST”. 

Never had I thought that this would be one of the most adventurous treks of the many done so far. We did expect that things would be different and of course difficult above 17000 ft as it was our first trek above 15000ft and the oxygen levels would be depleted, our body will react to the high altitude, acute mountain sickness was expected. What we did not anticipate is the weather going rogue on us. 

October is supposedly one of the best weather window for this trek, the other being April-May. The expectation was clear blue skies, beautiful clear views of the 6000, 7000, 8000 meter peaks which were in abundance anywhere one looked as the trek progressed beyond 12000ft altitude.

But this year it was not to be. The first two days of our trek from Lukla to Phakding and Phakding to Namche bazaar were sunny, clear days and offered stunning views everywhere. The third day was rest and acclimatize day at Namche Bazaar - climbing up to Everest View Hotel to get the first view of the coveted peak from afar. That day, the clouds decided to veil and hide the peak. We thought we needed to earn our right to get its view so it would be once we climbed further up in our trek.

The mountains held their secrets ! Early next morning we were warned by our trek guides to be prepared for rain and to gear up in poncho and rain wear as the weather prediction suggested. We started walking from Namche Bazaar towards our next stop “Dole” expecting to reach there after lunch break and a trek of 8-9 km. About 2 kms into the trek, the rain turned into snow. We weren’t prepared for snow! Without gaiters and crampons to protect our legs and feet all of us had freezing hands and feet by the time we reached our lunch stop. Some who were wearing ponchos also had their pants wet from the snowfall, so in all everyone was wet and freezing. By the time we reached lunch place there was few feet of snow around. The sights of the snow on the shrubs and near the trail were stunning. The cold though had got to us and walking another 4 kms in the now heavy snowfall was not prudent so we had to take a halt for the day at lunch point and decide to move further next day.

The snowfall had stopped but it was chilling and the earlier day snow had created a blanket of white everywhere as you can see in the photos. It rained and snowed , there was fog and clouds hanging down so much that we could jump and touch them. Today, we wore gaiters and crampons, yet we were still cold, our feet freezing till we reached our campsite. The tea houses were beautiful, rooms were neat and clean. The temperature had dropped to near zero degree , if only the rooms were heated ( the whole trail doesn’t have heaters) but that was too luxurious to ask in a region where they rely on solar energy. 

The route on Day 6 from “Dole” to “Machermo” was second most difficult trek day. It snowed and there was ascent and we were now climbing up to 14000+ feet. The trail seemed unending. We were cut off from the world for two days now as the Wi-Fi was down due to the weather. It kept snowing that day till the snow outside the tea house was almost 3-4 feet high. We had to take a decision of not moving to further stop the next day and wait for the weather to improve. 

Day 7 was spent idling, playing cards and talking to fellow trekkers. Day 8 the weather prediction was better than yesterday so off we set, geared up in our finery - layers of clothing, rain wear, gaiters, crampons , double socks, double gloves etc.. and the weather was good for about 2 kms and after that as if the weather had something to prove so it snowed down on us so heavy that our breathing was the only thing heavier than the snow. 

The most difficult day of the trek.This was also the most surreal and ethereal trek trail ever featuring a gushing river flowing down besides us (only making us colder), rocky edges protruding out (pushing us to walk faster out fear of rockfalls) and the pristine alpine lakes of Gokyo surrounded by icy mountains. We had reached 4790m(15700ft) , our tea house was on Gokyo lake 3 and we could see the Gokyo peak right in front covered with snow standing white and shiny, calling us to ascend to its peak of 5380m(17650ft). 

We did that the next day, my highest ever climb in the last 8 years of trekking. And why did we climb it ?? As from its peak we saw the first complete view of Everest and Lhotse and Makalu and Cho Oyu - 4 out of the 14 peaks standing tall at and above 8000meters. Now one doesn’t see more than a thumbnail size of Everest from Everest Base Camp so many trekkers climb Gokyo peak or Kala pathar to see Everest. If it was in my hands I would have packed my bags and returned after what I saw that day. 

But the trek wasn’t done yet… we had more days of walking and that we did. We crossed over to Khumbhu glacier region from Ngozumpa glacier region. Stayed at one of the highest tea houses at Gorakshep and trekked to the big stone inscribed with “Everest Base Camp 5364meters” , danced and laughed and celebrated the milestone moment. Thankfully the sun had shined a day before so we were not freezing during the walk. 

The trail and walk downwards to Lukla was not so adventurous as the ascent, there was joy in our hearts but we were tired of the cold and sub zero temperatures, we were missing home and family. The target was achieved and our eyes were set homeward, it still took us few more days to reach back to Kathmandu and then home. Tanned, Tired, few stones lesser in weight but Glowing, Amazed, Fulfilled from within; here we were lying in our bed - safe and grateful for the journey and to be Alive!

The Milestone

Everest in view

Ngozumpa glacier and Gokyo Lake

Gokyo Lake

Snow Snow everywhere

Everest in full view

Valley we walked

Ama Dablam peak

Khumbhu glacier at EBC

Enroute to Gorakshep

Cho Oyu - 8000+m

I believe I can fly

Bestie &Me

Girl Gang

@Namche Bazaar

The Route

Entering Sagar Matha National Park

@Phakding teahouse

Rajgadh - Torna range trek

 

I had missed this trek two years ago and was determined to not miss it this year. Rajgadh to Torna range trek is one of the treks which need good amount of endurance. The steep climbs of Rajgadh and Torna forts and the equally steep descends pose a challenge on fitness. To add, it was very humid that evening, we were sweating heavily. And soon it rained, thankfully we were in a shelter so the sweat did not meet the rain. A twist of turn was the ASI guard at Rajgadh top denying to open the darwaza leading us to the road for the ridge at Sanjeevani Machi. No persuasion convinced him to accede. But we were not to be denied the pleasures of the trek we had envisaged, the pro climbers came up with an alternate route, though a little circuitous it did serve our purpose. Now we descended into Pali village from Rajgadh and trudged on a concrete road for 4 km till we reached our point of salvation, a small climb and we had reached the ridge between the two forts, finally some fresh breeze calming our nerves and our bodies.

No trek is devoid of some adventures or unexpected events, one of our fellow trekker's shoes decided to cave in. Trekking shoes if not used for long tend to cause this attention seeking behavior when they get a chance. No workarounds could keep the sole and shoe together, they had to part ways! And here came the savior who offered his shoes to help and put on the humble floaters to walk the way ahead. Trekking is one sports ( I call it a team sport) which is purely a team effort, no one is left behind and everyone crosses the finish line. 

The ridge was a beautiful walk, faint lights could be seen on both sides, at times the trail was so narrow and the valley so close that even one miscalculated step could have sent anyone to heaven! The sweat had now turned cold due to the cold breeze, there was a time when the wind in our ears felt too much. Taking some breaks in between, enjoying mid night snacks of gulpoli, chikki, chips, chana etc., sipping away on electral water we reached the final steep summit of boulders at Budhala Machi. It was beginning to light up by the time we reached Torna top, though the sun was hidden behind the ever present clouds. We finally got a glimpse of the sun around 7. Tired but happy, Sleepy but radiant we pushed our way through the final descend down the fort Torna. Holding on to the railings and climbing down rocks and boulders, traversing scree we reached down. The hearty meal which followed was the most delicious of my meals. With a full heart and full tummy we started back towards Pune. 

Trek Organiser : Rockface Adventures

RAJGADH FORT

THE RIDGE WE WALKED...RAJGADH FAR AWAY

BUDHALA MACHI IN THE BACKDROP

FINALLY THE SUN !

TORNA FORT

Annapurna Base Camp Trek October 2023

The planning for Annapurna base camp trek (ABC) started last year after completing the Kashmir Great Lakes trek. A bunch of fellow enthused trekkers and I wanted to push the envelope and explore something beyond Indian Himalayan treks . Slowly the story started building, the bookings got confirmed with Trek the Himalayas. Members kept adding and subtracting until finally the count came to 12 trekkers. I was a bit skeptical about this trek after experiencing the expansive beauty of the Kashmir great lakes trek but my fellow trekkers convinced me into this one and I am thankful to them. The videos seen on YouTube told that ABC trek is all about climbing stairs up the mountains and down, walking through tropical forests while witnessing spectacular views of the Annapurna mountain range. The fitness preparation started well but I had my share of mishaps and lows to a point that in August I contemplated cancelling out. But my love for the mountains especially the Himalayas did not let me give up so easily, I pushed myself up to train and started manifesting myself at the Annapurna base camp. Compared to last year trek I was overweight and under trained but I was determined to push through, one step at a time slowly and gradually. 

So we started our trek from a small village Kilu near village Nayapul. Day 1 trek was climbing up to a village called Ghandruk. The trail was 4-5km, a warm-up for the upcoming longer trails. The first view of Annapurna was on the morning of Day 2 , the clouds parted their way to show the magnificence of Annapurna South and Gandharvachhuli. It was just peek-a-boo and the clouds covered the view shortly but it was enough to want more of this magnificence. The walk from Ghandruk to next camp Chhomrong on Day 2 was a long trail of 11km. The path down the mountain was full of leech and the fear of getting sucked by these tiny monsters pushed us to literally run down the mountain in record speed with few of us giving a taste of our blood to these blood sucking worms. After a climb up and some steps down we reached our guest house for the day called Chhomrong Mountain view which would have offered excellent views but sadly clouds covered the view completely. The accommodation here was meagre but better than tent stay. Food was good and we enjoyed the tea time with gup-shup and snacks we carried from home. Other group of trekkers from Israel were playing guitar and singing songs till late. It was a great setting of trekkers having fun.

Trekking in Indian Himalayas had been about crawling into tents and eating food in tiffin. But trekking in Nepal was a different experience, we stayed in tea houses, the food was a spread from humble dal-bhat thali to pizza-pastas. Most fellow trekkers were Europeans, South Asians and Nepal tourism provides for varied taste pallet of these trekkers. Wi-Fi, battery - phone charging and hot showers(if one is interested) were available at every camp at a cost. We had one of the best café latte at a camp named Himalaya.

Day 3 was 8km but it was all about climbing, we could see across the mountain, the place we would lunch at but for that we had to climb down 2000 stairs and climb up equivalent. The connection between the mountains was a metal jhulla bridge, one of many on this trek. The weather took a turn as soon as we reached Sinua, post lunch we had to gear up with warm clothes and the range eluded us in the cover of clouds and rain. Reaching camp Bamboo was a tiring day, this camp is located almost at the base of a mountain near a river and surrounded by Bamboo trees. It was very cold and it poured the entire evening and night making us wonder about our trek next day. Walking in rain wearing a poncho is not a great feeling, humidity hits bad and the plastic makes you sweat more. 

The morning of Day 4 did open up the sky a little to allow us slight view of the mountains but only for a while. Today was again a climbing day to camp Deurali with an altitude gain of 1000m. The steps today were high with boulders. Half way through we had lunch at Himalaya, a beautiful camp serving yummy food and excellent freshly brewed coffee. Camp Deurali offers only 5 guest houses one of which the New Hotel View Point  was ours. The meal here was tasty and provided the same variety. The next layer of warm clothes were out now as it got colder and temperature dropped below 5°. A game of antakshari and playing cards with fellow trekkers made the evening fun.  On each of these days dinner was either at 7 or max 7.30 and we were off to bed by 8.30/9. Starting of the day was mostly at 5.30am. 

Trekking is not a trip, it requires diligence and passion as well as discipline. The day of ascending to our goal, the summit had dawned. And today again involved a lot of climbing up and up with altitude gain of 1000m again. The day was clear and offered spectacular views of the Annapurna range.

Today was the hardest of the climbs, reaching Machapuchare base camp was a mini goal. Post lunch we walked through clouds towards the Annapurna base camp. Nothing was visible beyond few hundred feet. The moment we saw the board of ABC we became emotional and it's always a moment to cherish to touch the goal.

We were still clueless about the mountains beyond the clouds which only unveiled the next dawn. And what a sight it was, speechless.. literally and also while penning it down. The photos clicked cannot do justice to the sight we witnessed, the unfolding in the sunrise of the majestic tall proud Annapurna I(8091m) and the other mountains. It was surreal to be there in that moment and witness nature's wonder in its glory and what's amusing is that the mountains don't even know their effect or magnificence. They stand the wheels of time undaunted, presenting themselves each day unselfishly, unaware of the emotions they evoke in us mere mortals. This was my version of Annapurna base camp trek and the vision stays on in the mind forever even though the efforts fade away...

ABC trek details

Range - Moderate to Difficult

Trail - 70+km of trail hike (this is not just straight walk but incline climb)

Operator - Trek The Himalayas

Fitness level - Good cardio endurance and strength to walk long hours 

Start point - Pokhara

We flew Mumbai - Kathmandu and onwards Kathmandu to Pokhara( this can be done by road in 8-9 hours). Flight operators - Indigo and Buddha Air. Keep enough time between the flights as the flight to/fro Pokhara are always in delayed mode.

Trek gear - Lot of shopping options in Thamil area of Kathmandu , first copy of Kathmandu| North face | Columbia brands available at economical prices. Do not compromise on shoes though , buy only original ones. Above options are good for clothes and trekking poles. Pokhara also offers trekking shoppers a lot at a little higher pricing than Kathmandu.

Sharing just few glimpses into the trek

Last camp site - Annapurna Guest house @ ABC

Into the mountains I walk..

Poncho and us

View of the Range

The start@ Kilu village

At the Summit @6 am

Annapurna I 8091m

Annapurna South standing tall

The Jhulla bridge between Chhomrang and Sinua

The Latte man

Onwards we walk into the mist

Annapurna South from Chhomrang view point

Macchapuchare view from Chhomrang guest house

What a backdrop!!

The land of serenity

Bhutan, a tiny nation in the North East of India, proves that Size doesn’t matter, Attitude does!! 

A land of approximately 7.5L people, lesser in dimension than our state of Maharashtra. But far ahead in its way of life than us. I had heard about the Happiness Index of this country being very high, but one needs to experience Bhutan to justify this tag.

Medical services are free to all the citizens

Education is free till 12th and post that there is scholarship based on the grades achieved. 

No child labour even in the smallest of villages, all children attend school. 

Gender equality is not just a talk but seen everywhere.

Basically, the daily hassles of life which we face here are taken care of by the Royal Government. Equality, freedom of choice is a way of life. The air they breathe is pure, the water they consume is ample (rather surplus), they are surrounded by nature in abundance and strive to conserve it, the life they live is simple; so why should not they be happy!!

Biggest Buddha@Thimpu

Thimpu City

Weather
Bhutan’s summer is equivalent to Indian winter (at least Pune), but the sun can tan so do wear ample sunblock and always keep a light jacket handy as it can get windy often.

For adventure lovers - biking tours, birding tours, national park tours, trekking trips are highly recommended. But a permit is needed at most places so it’s better to book through a local agent or travel company for such tours. Travellers travelling on own, caution note – Offices giving permits are closed on weekends so plan your travel accordingly. If you travel by road from Phuentsholing then a 6- day permit is given for Bhutan (for more stay, you need to apply for extension) but if you fly-in then it is as per your hotel bookings.

Shorts and Half sleeves (both genders – equality here too) are not allowed in the Dzong (fortress – which houses administrative offices as well as living quarters of the monk) or Monastery complex so please dress up accordingly while visiting these places.

Thimou Dzong

Food
Indian food is readily available at all tourist places, but I would recommend trying local dishes like Emadatshi (spicy cheese dish made with chillies) or its other flavours like Mushroom, Potato or Thupka, Red rice and chilli chicken. Most Indian snack items are available in general stores so save the trouble of carrying from home. In Bhutan one can easily pick up a local Whisky brand, Bhutanse Beer or Breezer from a General store ( no license needed to store).

Language

Hindi movies and serials are all time favourites, most people speak Dzongkha (Bhutanese), English, Hindi fluently.

Indian tourist forms 70% of the tourism industry in Bhutan and thanks to Modi government we don’t need to pay for a visa or entry while other countries do. Tourist visit Paro and Thimpu majorly. We also stayed at Punakha (winter residence of the High Monk of Bhutan and the Royal King’s maternal place). Punakha has a Dzong located at the convergence of Mochu (Mother river) and Phochu (Father river) which reminded me of Dev Prayag (Alaknanda and Bhagirathi sangam). 

Punakha Dzong

Suspension Bridge

One can visit the suspension bridge across the river Phochu. Rafting is done in the Mochu (as per our driver this is the only rafting spot in Bhutan). Punakha can be a one-day tour from Thimpu or one can stay and enjoy the tiny town which looks like a Lego city (see pic). We stayed at Khuru Resorts, a nice place with a good view of the town and the river. 

We had planned to visit the Jigme Dorji Natiional Park which is close from Punakha but due to heavy rains the park was closed for tourists. We went to Phobji Kha instead, this is a Reserve National Conserve for migratory bird – Black necked cranes which fly in from Tibet during winters. A serene and beautiful valley, homestays are available here for bird lovers or otherwise too. The road to Phobji Kha is very scenic and further goes to Bumthang which is even more beautiful (known as Bhutan’s Switzerland)

Phobji Kha

On the way from Thimpu to Punkha one must pass through a high pass known as Dochula Pass where we saw 108 stupas built on a hill. A Botanical garden on way is also recommended.

Dochula Pass

Thimpu being the capital and the Kings’ residence is more developed city than others. The King does not stay in a palace as one would expect but in a moderate house near the Dzong where his administrative offices are located. The citizens of Bhutan revere their Kings and one can see the royal photos at all establishments. Thimpu located in a narrow valley is surrounded by mountains, we stayed at city centre and enjoyed the city life which was vibrant on the weekend. Leisurely walks on the streets and the cold winds were memorable (Thijha Café recommended for yummy pizzas)

Paro City

Paro is a beautiful city located in a broad valley and the houses here are inter spaced with patches of paddy farms. National museum here is must see. It also has a Dzong, this could be a place to buy your trip souvenirs or dress up in the local dress- Gho for men and Kira for women; and click some memorable photos. 

Gho &  Kira, the National Dress

The trip to Paro isn’t complete unless one visits the famous Tatsang or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. It’s a 10 km trek (to and fro) to this Monastery located in a rocky mountain but it’s worth all the sweat. Guru Padmasambhava landed here riding his wife who had taken the form of a tigress and so the name Tat meaning tiger and Sang meaning landing place or nest. The Guru meditated here for 4 months to ward off the evil. No food joints near the monastery so carry some fruits or chocolate bars along. A cafeteria mid-way for refreshment and food (a bit expensive though). 

Tiger's Nest Monastery

Kichu monastery is another one in Paro which is also must visit for the beautiful Rose garden around it. 

We travelled to Chelela Pass located at 13000 ft (highest Pass of Bhutan) from Paro by a 30 km winding road. Across the Pass is the Haa Valley where our Indian Army has a base. On clear days, one can see the highest peak of Jhomolhari (7320 m) from Chelela Pass but we could not see it due to cloudy weather. We enjoyed the cold winds and garam garam Maggi and Momos instead with a walk to the top of the Pass.

Wind & Cold@Chelela Pass

Paro has the only international airport in Bhutan so if you decide to fly it has to be to Paro. Druk Air flights are available from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata but the flights are infrequent and costly.

If you are looking for a lot of tourist attractions, then Bhutan is not the place. Bhutan,I felt must be experienced through its mountains, greenery, people, weather, simplicity, monasteries and its silences.