My travel-trek stories: The Story of Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Ri Trek

Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Ri (peak)

24th Oct 2025 - this day one month ago we started our journey to one of the most sought after trek of the Himalayan region. The trek to the base camp of the highest peak in the world “EVEREST”.

Never had I thought that this would be one of the most adventurous treks of the many done so far. We did expect that things would be different and of course difficult above 17000 ft as it was our first trek above 15000ft and the oxygen levels would be depleted, our body will react to the high altitude, acute mountain sickness was expected. What we did not anticipate is the weather going rogue on us.

October is supposedly one of the best weather window for this trek, the other being April-May. The expectation was clear blue skies, beautiful clear views of the 6000, 7000, 8000 meter peaks which were in abundance anywhere one looked as the trek progressed beyond 12000ft altitude.

But this year it was not to be. The first two days of our trek from Lukla to Phakding and Phakding to Namche bazaar were sunny, clear days and offered stunning views everywhere. The third day was rest and acclimatize day at Namche Bazaar - climbing up to Everest View Hotel to get the first view of the coveted peak from afar. That day, the clouds decided to veil and hide the peak. We thought we needed to earn our right to get its view so it would be once we climbed further up in our trek.

The mountains held their secrets ! Early next morning we were warned by our trek guides to be prepared for rain and to gear up in poncho and rain wear as the weather prediction suggested. We started walking from Namche Bazaar towards our next stop “Dole” expecting to reach there after lunch break and a trek of 8-9 km. About 2 kms into the trek, the rain turned into snow. We weren’t prepared for snow! Without gaiters and crampons to protect our legs and feet all of us had freezing hands and feet by the time we reached our lunch stop. Some who were wearing ponchos also had their pants wet from the snowfall, so in all everyone was wet and freezing. By the time we reached lunch place there was few feet of snow around. The sights of the snow on the shrubs and near the trail were stunning. The cold though had got to us and walking another 4 kms in the now heavy snowfall was not prudent so we had to take a halt for the day at lunch point and decide to move further next day.

The snowfall had stopped but it was chilling and the earlier day snow had created a blanket of white everywhere as you can see in the photos. It rained and snowed , there was fog and clouds hanging down so much that we could jump and touch them. Today, we wore gaiters and crampons, yet we were still cold, our feet freezing till we reached our campsite. The tea houses were beautiful, rooms were neat and clean. The temperature had dropped to near zero degree , if only the rooms were heated ( the whole trail doesn’t have heaters) but that was too luxurious to ask in a region where they rely on solar energy.

The route on Day 6 from “Dole” to “Machermo” was second most difficult trek day. It snowed and there was ascent and we were now climbing up to 14000+ feet. The trail seemed unending. We were cut off from the world for two days now as the Wi-Fi was down due to the weather. It kept snowing that day till the snow outside the tea house was almost 3-4 feet high. We had to take a decision of not moving to further stop the next day and wait for the weather to improve.

Day 7 was spent idling, playing cards and talking to fellow trekkers. Day 8 the weather prediction was better than yesterday so off we set, geared up in our finery - layers of clothing, rain wear, gaiters, crampons , double socks, double gloves etc.. and the weather was good for about 2 kms and after that as if the weather had something to prove so it snowed down on us so heavy that our breathing was the only thing heavier than the snow.

The most difficult day of the trek.This was also the most surreal and ethereal trek trail ever featuring a gushing river flowing down besides us (only making us colder), rocky edges protruding out (pushing us to walk faster out fear of rockfalls) and the pristine alpine lakes of Gokyo surrounded by icy mountains. We had reached 4790m(15700ft) , our tea house was on Gokyo lake 3 and we could see the Gokyo peak right in front covered with snow standing white and shiny, calling us to ascend to its peak of 5380m(17650ft).

We did that the next day, my highest ever climb in the last 8 years of trekking. And why did we climb it ?? As from its peak we saw the first complete view of Everest and Lhotse and Makalu and Cho Oyu - 4 out of the 14 peaks standing tall at and above 8000meters. Now one doesn’t see more than a thumbnail size of Everest from Everest Base Camp so many trekkers climb Gokyo peak or Kala pathar to see Everest. If it was in my hands I would have packed my bags and returned after what I saw that day.

But the trek wasn’t done yet… we had more days of walking and that we did. We crossed over to Khumbhu glacier region from Ngozumpa glacier region. Stayed at one of the highest tea houses at Gorakshep and trekked to the big stone inscribed with “Everest Base Camp 5364meters” , danced and laughed and celebrated the milestone moment. Thankfully the sun had shined a day before so we were not freezing during the walk.

The trail and walk downwards to Lukla was not so adventurous as the ascent, there was joy in our hearts but we were tired of the cold and sub zero temperatures, we were missing home and family. The target was achieved and our eyes were set homeward, it still took us few more days to reach back to Kathmandu and then home. Tanned, Tired, few stones lesser in weight but Glowing, Amazed, Fulfilled from within; here we were lying in our bed - safe and grateful for the journey and to be Alive!