The planning for Annapurna base camp trek (ABC) started last year after completing the Kashmir Great Lakes trek. A bunch of fellow enthused trekkers and I wanted to push the envelope and explore something beyond Indian Himalayan treks . Slowly the story started building, the bookings got confirmed with Trek the Himalayas. Members kept adding and subtracting until finally the count came to 12 trekkers. I was a bit skeptical about this trek after experiencing the expansive beauty of the Kashmir great lakes trek but my fellow trekkers convinced me into this one and I am thankful to them. The videos seen on YouTube told that ABC trek is all about climbing stairs up the mountains and down, walking through tropical forests while witnessing spectacular views of the Annapurna mountain range. The fitness preparation started well but I had my share of mishaps and lows to a point that in August I contemplated cancelling out. But my love for the mountains especially the Himalayas did not let me give up so easily, I pushed myself up to train and started manifesting myself at the Annapurna base camp. Compared to last year trek I was overweight and under trained but I was determined to push through, one step at a time slowly and gradually.
So we started our trek from a small village Kilu near village Nayapul. Day 1 trek was climbing up to a village called Ghandruk. The trail was 4-5km, a warm-up for the upcoming longer trails. The first view of Annapurna was on the morning of Day 2 , the clouds parted their way to show the magnificence of Annapurna South and Gandharvachhuli. It was just peek-a-boo and the clouds covered the view shortly but it was enough to want more of this magnificence. The walk from Ghandruk to next camp Chhomrong on Day 2 was a long trail of 11km. The path down the mountain was full of leech and the fear of getting sucked by these tiny monsters pushed us to literally run down the mountain in record speed with few of us giving a taste of our blood to these blood sucking worms. After a climb up and some steps down we reached our guest house for the day called Chhomrong Mountain view which would have offered excellent views but sadly clouds covered the view completely. The accommodation here was meagre but better than tent stay. Food was good and we enjoyed the tea time with gup-shup and snacks we carried from home. Other group of trekkers from Israel were playing guitar and singing songs till late. It was a great setting of trekkers having fun.
Trekking in Indian Himalayas had been about crawling into tents and eating food in tiffin. But trekking in Nepal was a different experience, we stayed in tea houses, the food was a spread from humble dal-bhat thali to pizza-pastas. Most fellow trekkers were Europeans, South Asians and Nepal tourism provides for varied taste pallet of these trekkers. Wi-Fi, battery - phone charging and hot showers(if one is interested) were available at every camp at a cost. We had one of the best café latte at a camp named Himalaya.
Day 3 was 8km but it was all about climbing, we could see across the mountain, the place we would lunch at but for that we had to climb down 2000 stairs and climb up equivalent. The connection between the mountains was a metal jhulla bridge, one of many on this trek. The weather took a turn as soon as we reached Sinua, post lunch we had to gear up with warm clothes and the range eluded us in the cover of clouds and rain. Reaching camp Bamboo was a tiring day, this camp is located almost at the base of a mountain near a river and surrounded by Bamboo trees. It was very cold and it poured the entire evening and night making us wonder about our trek next day. Walking in rain wearing a poncho is not a great feeling, humidity hits bad and the plastic makes you sweat more.
The morning of Day 4 did open up the sky a little to allow us slight view of the mountains but only for a while. Today was again a climbing day to camp Deurali with an altitude gain of 1000m. The steps today were high with boulders. Half way through we had lunch at Himalaya, a beautiful camp serving yummy food and excellent freshly brewed coffee. Camp Deurali offers only 5 guest houses one of which the New Hotel View Point was ours. The meal here was tasty and provided the same variety. The next layer of warm clothes were out now as it got colder and temperature dropped below 5°. A game of antakshari and playing cards with fellow trekkers made the evening fun. On each of these days dinner was either at 7 or max 7.30 and we were off to bed by 8.30/9. Starting of the day was mostly at 5.30am.
Trekking is not a trip, it requires diligence and passion as well as discipline. The day of ascending to our goal, the summit had dawned. And today again involved a lot of climbing up and up with altitude gain of 1000m again. The day was clear and offered spectacular views of the Annapurna range.
Today was the hardest of the climbs, reaching Machapuchare base camp was a mini goal. Post lunch we walked through clouds towards the Annapurna base camp. Nothing was visible beyond few hundred feet. The moment we saw the board of ABC we became emotional and it's always a moment to cherish to touch the goal.
We were still clueless about the mountains beyond the clouds which only unveiled the next dawn. And what a sight it was, speechless.. literally and also while penning it down. The photos clicked cannot do justice to the sight we witnessed, the unfolding in the sunrise of the majestic tall proud Annapurna I(8091m) and the other mountains. It was surreal to be there in that moment and witness nature's wonder in its glory and what's amusing is that the mountains don't even know their effect or magnificence. They stand the wheels of time undaunted, presenting themselves each day unselfishly, unaware of the emotions they evoke in us mere mortals. This was my version of Annapurna base camp trek and the vision stays on in the mind forever even though the efforts fade away...
ABC trek details
Range - Moderate to Difficult
Trail - 70+km of trail hike (this is not just straight walk but incline climb)
Operator - Trek The Himalayas
Fitness level - Good cardio endurance and strength to walk long hours
Start point - Pokhara
We flew Mumbai - Kathmandu and onwards Kathmandu to Pokhara( this can be done by road in 8-9 hours). Flight operators - Indigo and Buddha Air. Keep enough time between the flights as the flight to/fro Pokhara are always in delayed mode.
Trek gear - Lot of shopping options in Thamil area of Kathmandu , first copy of Kathmandu| North face | Columbia brands available at economical prices. Do not compromise on shoes though , buy only original ones. Above options are good for clothes and trekking poles. Pokhara also offers trekking shoppers a lot at a little higher pricing than Kathmandu.
Sharing just few glimpses into the trek
Top notch narrative. Being
ReplyDeletea visual person, it took me to the surreal mountains in its full glory.
Bravo Manasi for your efforts to keep on chasing these mountains..
What's next..
Awww ..thank you so much dear for the appreciation
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